A perfume, it is said, reflects the era in which it was born. Yet some scents seem to defy age, captivating women for decades after their creation. It is hard to define what gives a fragrance classic status. But in a year when some of the beauty world’s most iconic names—Guerlain, Kenzo and Nina Ricci—celebrate significant anniversaries, some clues can be found in the scents that have stood the test of time.
Guerlain, celebrating its 180th birthday, has created some of the most alluring fragrances. They include Shalimar in 1925, the first full-bodied oriental and “a shockingly sensuous and decadent scent,” according to international fragrance expert and consultant Roja Dove. Other Guerlain greats include Mitsouko (1919), which perfume critic Luca Turin describes as “extraordinarily rich and complex.
So what gives a fragrance classic appeal? According to Roja Dove, it’s originality. “Fragrances that go on to become classics set trends rather than follow them,” he says. “It’s the perfumery world equivalent of owning the original work of art rather than the poster.” Take Chanel Nº5. The first scent to rely heavily on synthetic floral aldehydes as a top note, it turned the world of perfumery on its head. Legions of women became fans during the 1930s and 1940s, but probably its finest moment was in 1953 when Marilyn Monroe famously answered “two drops of Chanel Nº5” when asked what she wore in bed. A superstar scent was born.
L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, which is 60 years old this year, certainly qualifies as a classic masterpiece. Launched in 1948, it encapsulated perfectly the spirit of romance and was one of the first fragrances to be linked to the world of couture. It also “possessed volumes of freshness”, says Dove. The original Lalique-designed bottle, meanwhile, featuring two doves on the stopper, is classed as one of the most beautiful yet made.
Kenzo Parfums, meanwhile, is only 20 years old, but its best-selling fragrances Kenzo Amour and Kenzo Fleur bear the hallmarks of future classics. New this year is the Kenzo Vintage Edition, which pays tribute to 1970—the year that Japanese designer Kenzo Takada opened his first shop in Paris. Tapping into the current trend for all things hippy, it is available in a choice of four psychedelic boxes, embossed with the symbol “peace and love”. The fragrance itself incorporates key notes from the era, including cedarwood, musk and vanilla.
Other modern classics include Angel by Thierry Mugler, which has been described as “the Shalimar of the 1990s” by Luca Turin. L’Eau d’Issey, one of the first of the light, watery fragrances, also became an instant classic by being so noticeably different from the heady 1980s perfumes that preceded it. Despite criticisms that the perfume industry has played it safe in recent years, we are now seeing renewed emphasis on the visceral intuition of the perfumer. With it some truly memorable fragrances are being launched— potential classics of the future.
All-time classics
Scents that have stood the test of time
- Chanel Nº5. Decades after it was launched in 1921, it seems as modern and alluring as ever.
- Guerlain Shalimar. Way ahead of its time when it appeared in 1925.
- Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps. One of the first fragrances to be linked to couture.
- Lanvin Arpège. A classic bottle for a classic fragrance.
- Estée Lauder Youth Dew. Launched in 1953 and still a best-seller for Lauder.
Modern classics
Scents with staying power
- Thierry Mugler Angel. Crystallized the trend for so-called “gourmand” or food-inspired notes.
- Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey. The all-time great light, watery scent.
- Calvin Klein Eternity. Still a best-seller 20 years after its launch.
- Lancôme Trésor. The quintessential modern floral.
- Chanel Coco Mademoiselle. Sexy, fresh and youthful—the Nº5 for hip young things.