Nature vs Science

The Big Beauty Debate

Are you a “natural” devotee or is your bathroom filled with the latest technologically advanced products?

Few could have missed the scientific leaps and bounds in skincare in recent years, with everything from DIY peels to at-home dermabrasion kits, in addition to the proliferation of the so-called “doctor” brands endorsed by dermatologists and featuring potent concentrations of active ingredients. Yet demand for “natural” and organic products has also mushroomed, with respected au naturel brands, such as Origins, launching organic ranges for the burgeoning “eco” market. The result is that skincare appears to have polarized between unpretentious organic products that often make few claims other than to moisturize the skin effectively, and high-tech anti-aging creams for results-driven customers who like their beauty products as chemically potent as possible.

There is a case to be made for both types of product. Natural ranges and simple formulations are ideal if you have sensitive skin or are young enough not to need powerful anti-aging products. They also appeal to those concerned about the environment as they use fewer chemicals and less packaging. Often they are infused with a fun, feel-good aura. L'Occitane en Provence, for example, follows the principles of phytotherapy (plant oils) and aromatherapy, using simple natural ingredients—almond oil, grape, olive, orange and verbena—that capture the spirit of the South of France.

The formulations of natural products, once considered gloopy and unrefined, have also improved. Origins, for example, uses standout natural ingredients—it was the first to launch a skincare range incorporating the antioxidant white tea—in delicious-smelling and luxuriously formulated products. The Dr Andrew Weil for Origins skincare range is paraben free and includes products such as Mega-Mushroom Serum, with potent natural ingredients to combat aging. The Organics 100% Organic Nourishing Oil collection, meanwhile, has a devoted following among beauty editors.

For others, only the sophistication of brands such as Estée Lauder, La Prairie and Lancôme will do. Innovative new products, such as Christian Dior's Capture R60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Cream, work on the deepest level of the skin to protect the “stem cells” responsible for skin rejuvenation. Such cutting-edge science of line-filling peptides and skin-smoothing polymers is irresistible to many of us concerned about wrinkles, while premium products such as Estée Lauder's Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Crème are seen as a justifiable investment in the war on aging.

In reality, there is a lot to be said for incorporating both natural and high-tech products in your beauty regime. The former can be used to give your skin a break from intense high-tech ranges, while some people prefer a natural moisturizer during the day and another, more scientifically advanced cream or serum overnight.

Yet some creams combine advanced science with potent natural ingredients. Christian Dior, for example, uses ultra-regenerative vine extracts from the world-renowned Château d'Yquem vineyard near Bordeaux in its premium anti-aging line. Science or nature? Peptides or purity? The future could be a combination of both.

The case for natural

  • Less chance of absorbing potentially harmful chemicals into the skin
  • Usually less harsh and good for sensitive skins
  • Better for the environment: brands such as Origins and L'Occitane, right, avoid excess packaging
  • Ideal for day use as they are less likely to contain ingredients such as glycolic acid, which increase photosensitivity

The case for high tech

  • Scientifically advanced products can offer a quick fix or a radiance boost for your skin
  • The formulations are very luxe
  • Best for fast results thanks to potent and scientifically advanced formulations
  • New products, such as Lancôme's Rénergie Refill 5X Intense Reinforcing Anti-Wrinkle Serum, use line-filling peptides to plump up wrinkles